Ride Day 37: The Stahlratte from Panama to Cartagena, Colombia by Motorbike

After we had boarded the Stahlratte, we were told to get to our bunks and sort out our luggage and then reconvene in 15 minutes on the upper deck for a full briefing before we headed out to sea. You can read about getting to the Stahlratte here.

All the cases went into storage areas, and I had a lower bunk and kept my backpack, helmet, clothes bad (including wash bag) and tank bag with my bed. All of our bikes are already under covers when we board.

We headed up to the upper deck where I was introduced formally to everyone Klaus, Chis, Sam, Onur, Stefano, Russell, Serkan, and Marcus are all names I can remember, there were more! Ludwig was our captain!

The Stahlratte is a German ship which had its maiden voyage in 1904 and has been used for many different purposes since the. (History below). Today the Stahlratte is used primarily for tourism and taking motorbikes from Panama to Colombia and back. It also does a few adventure trips elsewhere. You can read more about its journeys on the Stahlratte website. Its crew is all volunteers (except for Captain Ludwig), and on our trip, there were three crew members and the captain.

Once we settled in we were briefed by one of the crew, a German girl who had been on the Stahlratte for six months and this was her last trip. She basically told us all the things we were not allowed to do (like peeing from top deck), some of the passengers thought she was a little rough and coarse, but I didn’t think it was too bad.

After this we set sail, and the wind was very kind, we had a great tail wind that propelled us along nicely. After a few hours, we stopped by the San Blas Islands and took a swim to a little island where a couple was getting married, some tried kayaking and others just stayed on board.

During this time some local islanders come onboard with about 50 fresh live crayfish (lobsters), and that would be our dinner – a lobster curry and rice, yummy!

After washing up, we all went our separate ways and did what we wanted. Some read, some relaxed, some slept.

I slept the first night below deck and although stuffy and humid –  I was able to crank out about 5 hours sleep before heading up to the deck for sunrise.

Breakfast was a mix of bacon eggs, bread rolls, etc. Ludwig informed us we had made amazing time with the tailwind and we would be just outside of Cartagena by nightfall.

The day was spent relaxing and reading, doing some writing and taking photos. Mostly open seas and spent some time on the bow and just getting to know everyone and their journeys. Some real interesting characters.

A couple of people got seasick and for some unknown reason thought it would be good to spend that time below deck (just prolongs it)

By nightfall, we were right outside Cartagena. We had full sails up and were maki9ng most of the wind all day, so it was good to be close. I decided to spend that night on the deck on a chair and in a hammock sleeping.

First light was a beautiful day in Cartegena, although we were told that the person doing our import permit paperwork had passed away the day before, and we would not get our bikes until the next day. No one was worried about this. Poor fellow!

Sam, Chis and I spent the night at an Airbnb, had a few beers and headed for a bite to eat locally. Getting to Puerto Carti and The Stahlratte.

The next day we returned to the point, got a dingy out to the Stahlratte and headed for a wharf to get our bikes. This took about 1.5 hours. Then when we got off the ship with our bikes, we all rode together for about 45 minutes into Cartagena, where most of us went our separate ways.

Sam, Chris and I stayed in the same Airbnb for another few nights before both Sam and Chris continued their journey!

Getting to Puerto Carti and The Stahlratte

We left Panama City at 6.30am from the Panama House Bed and Breakfast where a few of the riders had stayed and a suggested place by the Stahlratte crew. Reviews were only fair about this place from the other riders. There was about 6 of us from that point, and we would meet up with others later.

You ride out of Panama City eastwards towards the International Airport Tocumen along the Pan American Highway passing through Tocumen, Chepo and Margarita until you see the signs to the left for Guna Yala / Carti

You then go along the Carti Road, which is not mapped on PGS until you come to the Kuna Indigenous Territory where there will be a toll booth.

There was a building to the right, and a local comes out to process your payment of $20 per person + $3 per motorbike. You follow that road until you get to the sea. This is not an easy road to ride with lots of hairpins (switchback) turns and pretty slippery. Even more so with a massively deflated front tire.

After we had arrived, we could see the ship docked and the road up onto the jetty and waited for the passengers and their bikes coming from Cartagena to get unloaded.

Then it was our turn, you take off all your cases and luggage and then tie your bike with a rope and then winch it up one by one of the boat. They then cover your bike, so make sure you get everything you need off your bike.

This process for about 16 bikes took around an hour and Eric, and one other rider still had not arrived.

After all the bikes had been loaded, the ship took off from the jetty and anchored about 100 meters out to sea. Eric arrived 1.45 hours after everyone else, got behind us and then lost – which would be so easy to do.

The Stahlratte came back in loaded Eric’s bike (the other guy was a no show) and then went back out.

We were then all loaded into a little dingy with our cases and luggage on another boat and taken out in groups of about 6 to the Stahlratte where we got onboard.

Stahlratte Details

• Stahlratte Website
• Ludwig Hoffman (Ship Captains Contact)
• Cost: $1200 USD (Including Motorbike)
• Nights Accommodation 2 (varies with different trips up to 4 nights)
• Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Included
• Drinks $1 USD Each
• Other Costs: $20 USD to Enter Indigenous

For Import Permits

• Ludwig’s Team Handles Bike out of Panama and Into Colombia
• You will need to send scans/pictures (good quality) of your
• Motorcycle papers (registration/ title)
• Driving license
• Passport first page
• As soon as you arrive in Panama, you need you to send Ludwig your temporary importation papers for Panama.

Additional information needed:

How many months(s) insurance for Colombia will you need:

• 1 month= $50 USD
• 2 Months = $70 USD
• 3Months = $90 USD

Also, you need to supply info on:

• The cc (engine size) of your motorcycle
• Real (original) colors of your bike

History of the Stahlratte

Stahlratte, Bremen, ex Johanna Maria SCH 419, Scheveningen. Keel was laid for sailing lugger Johanna Maria on 3rd of February in 1903 at Shipyard A.Vuijk & Zonen in Capelle at the Ijssel in the Netherlands.

It was already registered at the ship registrar on 27.03.1903, Simon van Leeuwen Bzn, Scheveningen as owner. It’s made for fishing. Dimensions are 24.41 x 6.55 x 2.80 meters, and the measurement amounts 99.2 BRT or 75.0 NRT. S.v.Leeuwen´s widow becomes the owner of the vessel and is registered at the ship registrar in February 1915, followed by her beneficiary B.v.Leeuwen, Scheveningen, in July 1926.

The lugger is discharged from Dutch ship registrar in Mai 1931 due to sale to Didrik Vea and Torres Didrikson from Kopervik, Norway. The new owners renamed it to VEA; home port is Kopervik at Karmoy Island located between Stavanger and Haugesund. VEA got fishing vessels identification no. R131A and continues to serve as a sailing fishing vessel.

In 1937 first engine was built in, a 2-cylinder-De Forenede from Bergen, Norway. In 1956 it was substituted by the 3-cylinder engine of the same make, powered know by 210 horse powers. Another substitution of engine happened in 1963. In that year a 1955 made, 280 horse powers 4-cylinder VOLUND engine was finally installed.

D.Vea and T. Ddriksen sell the vessel in 1968 to Sigurd Sandoy P/R from Kristiansand, who renames it in Sandy Senior, home port Kristiansund, Norway. Its name ist changed once more in 1978 by new owner Herman Silden P/R from Kristiansund in Sildaskjaer. Home port is changed as well to Maloy, north of Bergen, Norway. After 80 years serving as a fishing vessel the non-profit Verein zur Foerderung der Segelschiffahrt e.V. (Association of Advancement for Sailing Navigation) from Bremerhaven, Germany bought the lugger in 1984.

It starts the long story of transformation to 2-mast-schooner Stahlratte, home port Bremerhaven, Germany.